Randy Williams said... I assume you will let us know when you post it?
It should be ready in about two weeks. The hurricane slowed me down!
tina k said... It's amazing how one photo can tell a story that can be a different story for each viewer.
I agree. Beauty - and the idea - is in the mind of the beholder.
ChawnC said... Please show us where you work this in with regard to retouching, and other non-Photomatix enhancements. Thanks!
In almost all cases, I enhance my pictures even more in Photoshop. This may include making an Adjustment Layer and enhancing only part of a scene.
Also, I always check Levels - to make sure my image shows the best highlight and shadow detail.
I may also do selectively sharpening, using Filter > Convert to Smart Filter.
When it comes to HDR images with people in them, I mask out the HDR effect on the person, because it usually make the skin look strange.
For artistic image, I may apply Topaz Adjust.
David LaSpina said... Really looking forward to it. The only specific question I can think of at the moment is your thoughts on how photomatix and nik HDR compare. I'm starting to like Nik a bit more, but Photomatix is so much faster and I am much more familiar with it. But anyways.. looking forward to watching your workflow.
I use both Photomatix and Nik HDR Efex Pro. Cost is one difference, as Photomatix is less expensive. Yes, I have found Photomatix faster, too.
Pre-sets are different and offer different starting points. Both programs are fun to use - and useful tools for photographers.
HDR Efex has Control Points and Curves, which means you don't have to do additional work in Photoshop or Lightroom.
More from Dave. I thought of a better photomatix specific question: Do you feed photomatix jpegs or tiffs? I have gone back and forth. I originally always converted to jpg (from RAW) in Aperture and put those into Photomatix, then I convinced myself that using tiffs would give photomatix more info to work with. Then I read that Trey said he liked using jpegs into photomatix so I switched back. What's your take?
Trey "Stuck in Customs" who? Ha ha, as he would say! :-)
JPEGs sure do speed up the processing time. I use my RAW files - and have been very pleased. My advice: do a test and see if you can see a difference. With today's fast computers, why not use RAW files.
If you do want to convert to JPEGs first, use Image Process in Photoshop. It's amazing fast!
r.coppola said...will you be covering hdr from a single (hdr) image/picture?
I do that my dragging a single RAW file over to the Photomatix icon. If the contrast range is not greater than about 3 f-stop, it works quite well.. but you can probably pull out the same date from a RAW file in Photoshop or Lightroom. One thing to watch for is noise.
Anonymous said... Hi Rick. I'd like to know how you keep skin tones neutral in an HDR image instead of looking "cartoonish"
See comment above. Basically, you don't want the HDR effect applied to the skin - as illustrated in the opening image.
cycle11111 said...I am always wrestling with source image alignment especially for nature landscapes with lots of trees. How you deal with this would be awesome.
Shoot on a windless day. Seriously. That said, the anti-ghosting feature is getting better and better.
Jo Garrett said... What is the difference between the enhancer, cmpressor and fusion? which type of photos are they best for?
I really only use Tone Mapping - to create realistic and artistic image - see below. I will try show some examples in my movie.
charleyp said...i use DXO for raw processing any thoughts on how to use that with Photomatrix
Have not used DXO. Sorry.
Al Marsh said...'m starting to get confused on when to use HDR. You always seek out a high contrast situation, beat up buildings, or a junkyard, right? But yours looks great and it is in a low contrast room. The only contrast is out the window.
Actually, the opening picture for this post is a very high contrast scene. But HDR Can ruin a scene, too. See below - HDR on the left.
Paul Waldo said... Hi Rick, thanks so much for your work in the community. It is truly appreciated! I have a suggestion for your discussion. I have both Photomatix and Nik HDR Efex. It is my impression that Photomatix, in the hands of an HDR Ninja like you, is the Ferrari of HDR. I am the Grasshopper, you are Master Po :-) So, most of the time though, I use Nik, because the controls are more intuitive. I just can't get an intuative feel for what the sliders do. I'd love to see a segment that really drives home what the different Photomatix controls *mean*. Otherwise, it's just random fiddling, which usually produces less-than-satisfactory results.
Thanks for the kinds words. It's funny, we are the "slider" generation. I am limited on time for my movie, but I will cover what I can. For now, if you hold you mouse (or stylus) over the the slider, a good description shows up at the bottom of the window... in Photomatix 4.1.
Mark said...Rick, thanks for this! I'd like to know how best to eliminate halos while still being able to keep the sky a deep blue...or maybe this can only be done by blending layers in PS afterward?
For a natural look, go for Natural in the Lighting Adjustment mode.
Sorry I don't have more time, but I lost a few days in the hurricane.
Explore the light - and I will let you know when my movie is up!
If you would like to learn more about HDR, and see my latest HDR images, check out my HDR app, Rick Sammon's iHDR.