My Shooting Session with "Annie Leibovitz" - And a Flash Lesson

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Yes, Annie does look a little waxy in this photo, as does Fidel. I am sure you know why :-)

Anyway, the top photo illustrates one of my photo philosophies: Take the darn flash off the camera! Here I am using a flash bracket and a coil cord. With that set up, I can place the flash above the lens for both vertical and horizontal pictures, so that the shadow from the flash falls behind the subject, and not next to it. (Of course, it's best to avoid a shadow all together, which you can do by balancing the light from the flash to the available light.)

The bottom left picture was taken with the flash in the camera's hot shoe. Oh no!

The bottom right picture was taken with my off-camera flash set-up, which includes a flash diffuser to soften the light. Now that's more like it.

A bracket/coil cord set-up is great for on-the-go, one-person shooting. If you have an assistant to hold a flash, or if you can mount a flash/flashes on a stand/stands, a wireless controller offers much more flexibility.

Explore the Light,
Rick
P.S. Wax museums are actually good places to practice taking indoor pictures. Fun, too. I guess you know you've made it as a photographer when you get waxed. These photos were taken about eight years ago at Madam Tussauds in NYC. More recent additions include Barrack Obama and Sponge Bob.

This Just In: Ultra-Fast Masking

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I just heard about this and had to share the cool news!

The just-released Topaz ReMask plug-in supercharges masking and extraction in Photoshop by applying new extraction technology to this common task. Get lightning-fast masks and painlessly (man, I like that) preserve difficult details like hair and fur, all while staying completely in Photoshop.

The new Topaz ReMask offers several way-cool features:

Speed! Topaz ReMask is much faster at extracting even complex subjects than any other method currently available. This is partly because there's only a small amount of required user input, but mostly because its technology is so adept at creating masks automatically.

Accuracy! The hardest subjects for masking tools are those with complex backgrounds, faint edges, and fine detail like fur or hair. The unique algorithm that Topaz ReMask uses specialize in extracting "difficult" subjects without spending all day doing it.

Workflow! Topaz ReMask flawlessly integrates into a Photoshop workflow because it doesn't make a "trip" to an external app - there isn't even a new user interface to learn! It works immediately on the layer mask directly within Photoshop. This reduces the learning curve and saves processing time, which is part of what makes it so fast and simple to use.

Important: this version of Topaz ReMask only works in Adobe Photoshop because it makes use of Photoshop-specific layer masks.

You can order ReMask from Topaz Labs.

Guest Blogger: John D. Williamson

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Here’s a cool guest post from my friend John D. Williamson. Take it away, John!

I never imagined that I would be asked to be a guest blogger for Rick Sammon! Thank you, Rick It’s an honor.

The top image you see here will always hold a special place with me; it was the cover for the 2009 Photo Basics catalog. When I first sat down with the Vice President and Art Director for Westcott, they already knew they wanted an edgy image that had a fashion feel to it. After some discussion we decided on the background, wardrobe and model.

I used the Westcott Strobelite PLUS mono-block with a 7’ Octabank. I positioned the light high above and in front of the model, just off to her right. This provided a very soft wrap around light that had a nice fall off from the top of the image to the bottom. It also added a nice texture to the jacket. I then added a second Strobelite Plus with an optical white umbrella (which I shot through) located just behind me, for a touch of fill. Then, after just a wee bit a post, it was finished.

With the power of the Strobelite units, I was able to have Aubrey, our model, move as she wished. Instead of posing her in the traditional portraiture method… "Now tilt your head, just a little bit more…there. Now take your index finger and move it out just a faction…" I was able to capture a much more natural position as she moved freely, with little direction from me.

The background was a scenic rental from RentScenicBackgrounds.com. The shoot was in my studio, but I wanted the “grungy” feel of bricks in an ally. It all came together to capture an image that was exactly what they wanted.

This bottom image is actually my wife’s cousin, Marie, from Germany. She had come to the States to stay with my wife’s family for a few weeks. She mentioned that she had always wanted to model but didn’t know how to get started. The next day we went to my studio, and four hours later she had the beginnings of a portfolio.

Of the dozen or so images we created, this is my favorite. I often shoot with just a single light source, preferring the look and style of low key images. I used a single Strobelite Plus unit with a Westcott 24”x32” Softbox positioned just out of the frame to the cameras right. I opted not to use a rim light or a fill light to allow her hair to fall off into shadow.

With the versatility of the Stroblite I was able to dial the power down far enough to shoot at f4, and still have the box just 2 feet from Marie. Both of which allowed me to get the softness I wanted.
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Exposing For the Highlights is For the Birds!

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Take a look at the leading edge of the bird's wings in these two versions of the same image.

Bottom image: leading edge is overexposed. Top image: ahhhh, that's more like it!

I simulated the overexposed highlights in the bottom iamge to illustrate what will probably happen if you shoot in an automatic mode w/out any exposure compensation in a situation like this one - where you have a small area that is brighter than most of the scene.

The solution: set your exposure compensation to – 1/2 (for starters) and shoot RAW. With RAW files, you can recover areas that are overexposed up to about one stop.

Just added (because I was reminded of the point by reader Scott Thomas - who probably does not have jet lag as I currently do): Always check your histogram and overexposure warning on your camera's LCD monitor).

Explore the Light,
Rick

Create The Salvador Dali and Fish-Eye Lens Effect with Your iPhone

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Want to create an artistic image with your iPhone camera – the kind of image ("melting" subjects) that perhaps Salvador Dali would have created had he had an iPhone?

Want to create the full-frame fish-eye lens effect (curved lines in an image when you tilt the camera up or down)?

It's easy and fun! For only $49.95 you can download my iPhone Rockin' Rick Rotating Camera Effect App and awaken the artist within.

Or, you can simply rotate the camera (kinda quickly) while you are taking a picture - which is what I did for the two pictures you see here. :-)

Seriously, if you know of any cool photo Apps for the iPhone and want to share them with readers of this blog, please reply to this post.

Explore the Light,
Rick

P.S. Okay, enough silliness! Here is some cool info on the iPhone from my friend Juan Pons.

Did you know that when you send a photo you took with the iPhone as an email attachment from your iPhone, the size of the file that gets sent is much smaller than the original image stored on your iPhone?

When you send your friend that great photo you just took, the iPhone sends a much smaller version to save on the data that is transmitted. For example, the iPhone 3GS has a 3 MegaPixel camera and the files that it creates are 1536x2048, however when you attach that photo to an email your friend only gets a photo that is a measly 600x800. Great for viewing on an email, but usually not big enough to be a good desktop image on your computer.

The same goes for videos, if you email or post to YouTube the videos you took with that iPhone 3GS they are compressed and and don't look nearly as good as the original full sized files.

How do you get large original photos and videos out of your iPhone? Connect your iPhone to your computer and download the original files using iPhoto or similar software. You will be amazed how much better those photos and videos look. 

7D Photo. 7D Rocks!!!

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Amazing! These mangoes rock!

What? You were expecting to see some images from the new Canon 7D? Well, stay tuned. Soon come.

In the meantime, chew on a few 7D mangoes.

Also in the meantime, check out Planet 5D for cool and must-know info on the 7D and 5D Mark II.

Explore the Light,
Rick
P.S. Sorry, I just could not resist.

Most Important iPhone Photo Tip

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Here's my most important iPhone photo tip: always be on the lookout for cool pictures - the iPhone is amazing . . . and amazingly fun!

Okay... here are some more tips:

The name of the game is to fill the frame.

Try not to shoot into the sun, unless you are photographing a sunrise or sunset - or want a silhouette.

Press the shutter button very gently.

Back light, shoot tight.

With people, see eye to eye.

Keep the horizon line level - and don't place it in the center of the frame.

Use a foreground element (uh, maybe a seagull) to add a sense of depth to a photo.

Play with your image in Photoshop or Photoshop Elements or iPhoto. Many iPhone photos can use a slight boost in contrast. I boosted the color and contrast of this photo, taken today in Morro Bay, CA, with the Mild Color Pop filter in Topaz Adjust (Topaz link on the bottom of this page).

I am in the Morro Bay area planning 2010 projects with my friends Hal and Victoria from the Light Photographic Institute.

Any iPhone photo tips are welcome on this blog.

Explore the Light,
Rick
P.S. Here is another iPhone photo tip: Rotate the camera while taking a photo. The results can be surprising - and quite cool.