Friday's Fab Photographer: Morgana Creely

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This week's Friday's Fab Photographer is Morgana Creely.


Thank you for this great opportunity. :)


Above:
This image was the most challenging to create in that I wanted the shot to look like it was lit entirely with the ambient light in the room and from the window. In fact it is a mixture of ambient and Speedlight [small flash].

The unmodified Speedlight was positioned fairly low to the ground, pointing from the right of room towards the model to mimic light from the window. This allowed me to light the model’s face [which otherwise would have been in darkness] without throwing additional shadows on the back wall.




Above:
One of my favourite images, this was shot very early one morning in a local cemetery. We had permission from the caretaker to shoot within the premises and in a location like this are always respectful of the location.

The model is lit by a single unmodified Speedlite which is placed on the outside of the fence railing to create the shadows.


The outfits for these shoots were sourced from my props wardrobe or the models with the exception of the colour “bus stop” outfit which was rented for less than $100.  Whilst I am very fortunate to have studio lights, when I’m on location I rely entirely on my Speedlights.

The old adage is true; it’s not what you got, it’s what you do with it.

A big thank you to Rick Sammon for the guest blog.

Links:

Website: www.morganacreely.com
Blog: http://mcreely.blogspot.com/
Workshops: www.imagesthattellstories.com
Twitter: http://twitter.com/#!/MorganaCreely

Sunrise Wonders and Wonderful Waterfalls in Mt. Rainier

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Day one of the Mt.Rainier workshop that I am co-leading with DPE podcast co-host Juan Pons was spectacular. Here are a few of my shots - and a few tips.

Above: Expose for the highlights. Move the histogram to the right - but make sure you don't have spike on the right. Also, get up super early to capture the sunrise. You can rest when you are dead. :-)


Above: Use slow shutter speeds to blur moving water. Start with a 1 second exposure and then try 2, 3 and 4 second exposures.


Above: Compose with different lenses. Here I used a Canon 14mm lens on my Canon 5 D Mark II to capture an extremely wide-angle view of the this beautiful waterfall. The lens is actually "seeing" ahead and down at the same time.


Above: Look for texture. The moss surrounding this waterfall adds a nice texture to the flowing water.

Explore the light,
Rick

P.S. Want to have more fun with your photography? Come on one of my photo workshops.


My Latest Dumb Luck Shot

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It's day 1 of the Mt. Rainier workshop that I am co-leading with my friend/DPE podcast co-host Juan Pons. 


After a fun pizza party with the group, we saw this amazing scene behind our hotel. 


We ran back to our rooms, grabbed our cameras and tripods and took a few quick shots. I used my Canon 5D Mark II and Canon 24-105mm IS lens for this capture.


Talk about dumb luck shots.


The color image is below. Because the scene was monochromatic, I played around with filters in Nik Software's Silver Efex Pro - and really liked the High Structure filter.




FYI: You can save 15% on Silver Efex Pro (and all Nik Plug-ins) if you use this code - RSAMMON - upon check-out on the Nik web site.


I hope you can join me on a workshop some day. We have lots of fun.


Explore the light,
Rick

See the Light and Get it Right

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I love Lightroom and Photoshop - and all the digital enhancements these programs have to offer. What fun!

I love plug-ins - and all the fun we can have with the cool and creative effects that are available to us with the click of a mouse or tap of a Wacom stylus.

I like stand-along HDR digital imaging programs, such as Photomatix Pro.

But I love something even more about photography: getting it right in camera - so I can spend more time shooting (and exercising) and less time sitting at my computer. 

(Flash back to the slide film days: We had to get it right - otherwise we were screwed.)

Getting it right in camera is what I suggest (preach) on my workshops: how to get the best possible in-camera exposure. That starts with seeing the light - the contrast range in a scene, the direction of light, the color of light and the quality of light.

Next: controlling the light - with a reflector, diffuser or flash. These accessories have something very important in common: they reduce the contrast range in a scene. We must see the contrast range in a scene to get a good exposure.

Next: check the histogram on the camera's LCD monitor to make sure the highlights are not washed out: look for the spike on the right. About the shadows: shadows can be your friend - so I sometimes don't mind if they are blocked up.

And guess what? It's really not that hard to get it right in camera. Using just one light, a Canon 580 EX II Speedlite in a Westcott softbox, I got a perfect exposure when I took my "Girl With a Pearl Earring" photograph with my Canon 5D Mark II. So, after opening the file in Lightroom, I made virtually no adjustments - and then went for a walk.

So my friends, try to get it right in camera. That's one of the things I will be doing during my creativeLive class in October. More than 6,000 photographers have already registered – so I hope you can join the photo fun. The more the merrier.

Explore the light - and capture the light the right way,
Rick

Here are the links to some of the products mentioned in this post:


 
Photomatix Pro
You can save 15% when you order Photomatix by using this code: ricksammon.

The Photographer's Eye - Part II

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This is Part II of a two-part post on The Photographer's Eye. Click here to read Part I.


As a photographer, you see the world differently than a non-photographer. That's kinda cool.

You look at the world around you, as opposed to someone who just sees the world - which is akin to listening to music as opposed to hearing music. Big difference.



And speaking of the photographer's vision, here are some things to think about.


Above: Look for elements you - or viewers of your photographs - may recognize. Do you see the heart in the water under the pier.




Above: Always envision the end result in the digital darkroom – as I did when I photographed these emperor penguins in Antarctica. 




Above: Look for shadows in a scene. Shadows are the soul of the photograph.




Above: Get inspired by looking at the work of master painters, as I did when I saw the painting - Girl with a Pearl Earring by Vermeer.




Above: See the light - the contrast range in a scene, as well as the direction, color and quality of light. It's all about light.




Above: Know when to shoot HDR - when the contrast range is extreme.

The image above was created with Photomatix. You can save 15% when you order Photomatix by using this code: ricksammon. 


If you would like to join other photographers who enjoy seeing and picturing their world, join one of my workshops. We see and shoot all day long. I can also show you some Photoshop and Lightroom enhancements.


Explore the light,
Rick

P.S. If you can't make a workshop, my app, Rick Sammon's 24/7 Photo Buffet, has many examples of seeing.

Some Tips for Photographing Birds in Flight

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Photograph by Chris Klapheke
If you will be attending one of my 2011 Bosque del Apache workshops, which I am leading with Juan Pons and Chris Klapheke, go ahead and bookmark this page and read it again before the workshops. You'll also find several useful links at the end of this post.

Photo Tips:
Photograph by Rick Sammon
• Bring wide-angle and telephoto lenses so you can "tell the whole story" of the adventure.
• A 400mm lens may be long enough for your shot. You get very close to the birds.
• For sunrise and pre-sunrise shots, you'll need a tripod.
• Set you camera up for back-button focus, so you can focus and shoot independently from each other.
• Bring a flashlight (head mounted flashlights are best) so you can see what you are doing during the pre-dawn hours.
• The "blast off" happens at dawn. Don't miss it. However, there are plenty of other bird photography opportunity throughout the day around the ponds.
• During the midday hours, shoot HDR in and around Socorro, where you'll most likely be staying.
• Use slow speeds to add a sense of motion to your pictures.
• Use a shutter speed of 1/1000th of a second to "freeze" birds in flight.
• Take bird portraits and environmental portraits.

Travel Tips:
Photograph by Rick Sammon
• Dress very, very warmly for the early morning shoots. It can be well below freezing.
• Pack hand and toe warmers.
• Gloves? A must.
• Dress in layers, because it warms up fast.
• Whatever you do, don't miss the Green Chile Cheeseburger at the Owl Bar and Cafe - on you way to and from the "blast off" area. Look for me there!
• Don't forget your sunglasses and sunscreen. And hat.
• Drive carefully on your way from Albuquerque to Socorro. The crosses on the side of the road illustrate why....

Here are some links to posts on bird photography and my some of my other workshops:
Photograph by Rick Sammon
Tips for photographing birds in flight

More tips and accessories for bird photography

Get the most out of a photo workshop

Photographing Birds in Flight

For great prices/service/advice on accessories, check out Outdoor Photo Gear.

Explore the light,
Rick

9.20.11 Tuesday's Talented Twitter Find: Elle Patarroyo

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This week's Tuesday's Talented Twitter Find is Elle Patarroyo.

I like this shot because it's a very different view of the subject - with very creative lighting. I also like the negative space

About My Tuesday's Talented Twitter Find: Each Tuesday (when I am not traveling) I will pick a talented photographer I find on Twitter - and promote the talented photographer here on my blog and on twitter, etc.

Nice work Elle.
Rick

P.S. If you are not following me on Twitter, click here to keep up to date with what I'm doing. And, keep posting interesting photo stuff on Twitter!