Answers To Your Photomatix 4.1 Questions



As I mentioned here on my blog a while ago, I am making a screen-grab workflow movie on how I use Photomatix. I asked readers what they would like to see me cover in the movie. Well, I can't answer all the questions in the movie (due to time), so I will answer all of them here - and may touch on some of them in the movie.


Thanks for sending your questions.

If you are new to HDR, you can save 15% when you order Photomatix by using this code: ricksammon. 


Before I go on, yes . . . I do use Nik Software's HDR Efex Pro, and teach it on my workshops, along with Photomatix. As an instructors, I need to be well versed in many program and plug-ins. Save 15% if you use this code: RSAMMON upon check-out on the Nik web site.


Here we go:



Randy Williams said... I assume you will let us know when you post it?
It should be ready in about two weeks. The hurricane slowed me down!
tina k said... It's amazing how one photo can tell a story that can be a different story for each viewer.

I agree. Beauty - and the idea - is in the mind of the beholder.
ChawnC said... Please show us where you work this in with regard to retouching, and other non-Photomatix enhancements. Thanks!

In almost all cases, I enhance my pictures even more in Photoshop. This may include making an Adjustment Layer and enhancing only part of a scene. 

Also, I always check Levels - to make sure my image shows the best highlight and shadow detail. 

I may also do selectively sharpening, using Filter > Convert to Smart Filter.

When it comes to HDR images with people in them, I mask out the HDR effect on the person, because it usually make the skin look strange.  


For artistic image, I may apply Topaz Adjust.
David LaSpina said... Really looking forward to it. The only specific question I can think of at the moment is your thoughts on how photomatix and nik HDR compare. I'm starting to like Nik a bit more, but Photomatix is so much faster and I am much more familiar with it. But anyways.. looking forward to watching your workflow.
I use both Photomatix and Nik HDR Efex Pro. Cost is one difference, as Photomatix is less expensive. Yes, I have found Photomatix faster, too. 

Pre-sets are different and offer different starting points. Both programs are fun to use - and useful tools for photographers.

HDR Efex has Control Points and Curves, which means you don't have to do additional work in Photoshop or Lightroom.

More from Dave. I thought of a better photomatix specific question: Do you feed photomatix jpegs or tiffs? I have gone back and forth. I originally always converted to jpg (from RAW) in Aperture and put those into Photomatix, then I convinced myself that using tiffs would give photomatix more info to work with. Then I read that Trey said he liked using jpegs into photomatix so I switched back. What's your take?

Trey "Stuck in Customs" who? Ha ha, as he would say! :-)

JPEGs sure do speed up the processing time. I use my RAW files - and have been very pleased. My advice: do a test and see if you can see a difference. With today's fast computers,  why not use RAW files. 

If you do want to convert to JPEGs first, use Image Process in Photoshop. It's amazing fast!

r.coppola said...will you be covering hdr from a single (hdr) image/picture?
I do that my dragging a single RAW file over to the Photomatix icon. If the contrast range is not greater than about 3 f-stop, it works quite well.. but you can probably pull out the same date from a RAW file in Photoshop or Lightroom. One thing to watch for is noise.

Anonymous said... Hi Rick. I'd like to know how you keep skin tones neutral in an HDR image instead of looking "cartoonish"
See comment above. Basically, you don't want the HDR effect applied to the skin - as illustrated in the opening image.

cycle11111 said...I am always wrestling with source image alignment especially for nature landscapes with lots of trees. How you deal with this would be awesome.



Shoot on a windless day. Seriously. That said, the anti-ghosting feature is getting better and better.
Jo Garrett said... What is the difference between the enhancer, cmpressor and fusion? which type of photos are they best for?

I really only use Tone Mapping - to create realistic and artistic image - see below. I will try show some examples in my movie.



charleyp said...i use DXO for raw processing any thoughts on how to use that with Photomatrix

Have not used DXO. Sorry.
Al Marsh said...'m starting to get confused on when to use HDR. You always seek out a high contrast situation, beat up buildings, or a junkyard, right? But yours looks great and it is in a low contrast room. The only contrast is out the window.


Actually, the opening picture for this post is a very high contrast scene. But HDR Can ruin a scene, too. See below - HDR on the left.


Paul Waldo said... Hi Rick, thanks so much for your work in the community. It is truly appreciated! I have a suggestion for your discussion. I have both Photomatix and Nik HDR Efex. It is my impression that Photomatix, in the hands of an HDR Ninja like you, is the Ferrari of HDR. I am the Grasshopper, you are Master Po :-) So, most of the time though, I use Nik, because the controls are more intuitive. I just can't get an intuative feel for what the sliders do. I'd love to see a segment that really drives home what the different Photomatix controls *mean*. Otherwise, it's just random fiddling, which usually produces less-than-satisfactory results.


Thanks for the kinds words. It's funny, we are the "slider" generation. I am limited on time for my movie, but I will cover what I can. For now, if you hold you mouse (or stylus) over the the slider, a good description shows up at the bottom of the window... in Photomatix 4.1.

Mark said...Rick, thanks for this! I'd like to know how best to eliminate halos while still being able to keep the sky a deep blue...or maybe this can only be done by blending layers in PS afterward?


For a natural look, go for Natural in the Lighting Adjustment mode.

Sorry I don't have more time, but I lost a few days in the hurricane.

Explore the light - and I will let you know when my movie is up!

Thank you,
Rick

P.S. 
If you would like to learn more about HDR, and see my latest HDR images, check out my HDR app, Rick Sammon's iHDR.






Thursday's Travelogue: Miami's Sizzling South Beach



This is part of a series I run here on my blog: Thursday's Travelogue. This week: Miami's South Beach - which is one of the stops on my January 2012 Florida Photo Caravan.




Here are some links to some of my previous South Beach posts:
South Beach Sunrise Shoot
Quick Tips for Nighttime Shooting
Work with Reflections




South Beach is grrrrreat for HDR! All these images are HDR.




 For discounts on the HDR programs I use, Photomatix and Nik HDR Efex Pro, click here.




Explore the light,
Rick


P.S. See past travelogues below:
Mt. Rainier
St. Augustine
Bosque del Apache

Mono Lake

8.30.11 Tuesday's Talented Twitter Find: Joseph Gutiz

This week's Tuesday's Talented Twitter Find is Joseph Gutiz.

Follow Joseph on twitter.

About My Tuesday's Talented Twitter Find: Each Tuesday (when I am not traveling) I will pick a talented photographer I find on Twitter - and promote the talented photographer here on my blog and on twitter, etc.

Nice work Joseph.

Explore the light,
Rick

P.S. If you are not following me on Twitter, click here to keep up to date with what I'm doing. And, keep posting interesting photo stuff on Twitter!

Top Tips for Photograping Waterfalls - From Hal "Hurricane" Schmitt and Yours Truly

Photographs by Rick Sammon
"Hurricane Hal," formerly known as Bull Schmitt from the Light Photographic Workshops, is here in Croton on Hudson, New York shooting with me - because Hurricane Irene washed out his B&H seminar.

Today we photographed waterfalls - large and small. Here are a few tips, from Hurricane Hal and me, for capturing the beauty of flowing water.


• Use a tripod - to steady your camera during long exposures.
• Shoot at 1 second or more to blur moving water.
• Pack a ND (Neutral Density) filter, which will let you shoot at slow shutter speeds in bright light.
• A polarizing filter can also reduce the amount of light entering the lens.
• Use your camera's self-timer or a cable release to avoid camera shake during a long exposure.
• Check your histogram to check your exposure.
• Bring a lens cloth to keep your lens clean.
• Use Live View to check your scene - composition, focus and exposure. Zoom in for precise focus.

Here is a link to our waterfalls tips' movie.

Here is a fun link to my double rainbow movie.

Hurricane Hal and I hope to see you at the California Photo Fest in October in California.

Explore the light,
Rick

P.S. Here's a hand-held pano I took this morning. Another double rainbow. What does it mean?

Also, we shoot here during my Croton Creative workshop.
Five-image pano. Canon 5D Mark II, Canon 17-40mm lens. Stitched in Photoshop's Photomerge.
Here are some pano tips from Hurrican Hal.

Friday's Fab Photographer: Michael Rosenbaum



Each Friday, I try to run a post here: Friday's Fab Photographer. This week's fab photographer is Michael Rosenbaum.


Take it away Michael.


Thank you, Rick, for the opportunity to present some ideas from my recent PSA article. It was a huge honor to get your email and a privilege to prepare this. 



Photographing birds in motion (most often in flight) is both a challenge and a pleasure. For some it is as much sport as skeet shooting, though with memorable images as the reward.  


There is an adrenaline rush that accompanies quickly firing off frame after frame, trying to get a definitive action capture. But, like any other skill, action photography requires some practice and, for some, modification of shooting techniques. Following are some essentials and some suggestions for capturing birds in motion and producing memorable images.


Whether you shoot in shutter speed priority, aperture priority, or manual, here are some observations that have worked for me:  A shutter speed of at least 1/1000 is usually necessary for a sharp flight shot, often 1/2000; feel free to shoot at an ISO which maximizes your camera's shutter speed so long as it doesn't create noise you don't want to deal with when processing; feel free to photograph with a wide open aperture, especially in low light.  

A word about the aperture: Because the bird is usually flying at some distance from you, it is perceived by the camera as being on one focal plane as opposed to a bird which is perched close to you. Because the camera perceives the bird as being on one focal plane, the whole bird should be in focus.  go to higher apertures when I want to photograph more than one bird or when I want to limit the amount of light reaching my sensor.


Two final points: 1) I turn off my image stabilization for action photography. Because I am shooting over 1/1000th of a second shutter speed,  IS becomes redundant and costs a bit of time to engage, a bit of time I am losing; 2) don't be GREEDY--trying to get a bird in flight full-frame is almost a guarantee for going home with amputated wings or beaks. I generally use a zoom and back off from full frame so the bird is only filling 25% of the frame (if that). I do go home with some keepers.


As with anything else, practice, practice, practice. And learn to predict behavior. Knowing when a bird is about to take off is valuable information, learned by frequent observation.  However, once you begin to get some keepers I hope you will experience the joy that comes of capturing and sharing nature's beauty.


• • • • •

Michael Rosenbaum is 2nd Vice-Chairman of the Nature Division of the Photographic Society of America. He also belongs to NANPA and the Everglades Photographic Society. He has lived in Florida for 20 years.
More of Michael’s images may be viewed on his Flickr.com web-page at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/michael_rosenbaum/


He can be contacted at polyandy@comcast.net.


• • • • • 
Thank you Michael for a wonderful article.

If you are interested in photographing birds in flight, I have two workshops coming up:


Bosque del Apache, New Mexico
and
Alaska


We will also be photographing birds in Merritt Island during my January Florida Photo Caravan.


Explore the light,
Rick