It's Been a Long Time Comin'

Photo © Rick Sammon

Hey, Woodstock was 40 years ago this weekend - hence the play on words in the title of this blog post... which is actually about long exposures.

Uh, if you don't get the play on words, do a search on CSN. If you don't know who CNS is, do a search on Crosy, Stills and Nash. :-)

This info comes from my buddy at Canon USA, Rudy Winston. Take it away Rudy!

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How long it takes to write an LONG EXPOSURE image to the memory card in any EOS camera, regardless of specific model, depends upon whether the user has activated the Long Exposure Noise Reduction. There are three possible settings on most models: Off, Auto, and On.

If the user turns Long Exposure NR Off, he or she should find writing to the memory card pretty quick -- little effective difference vs. taking a conventional shot at normal shutter speeds in daylight. In other words, the red Card Busy light on the back of the camera will appear lit for only a second or two, if that.

However, if Long Exposure Noise Reduction is active, things change. Long Exposure NR is achieved via the "dark frame subtraction method". This in essence means that the camera shoots the actual long exposure picture, closes the shutter, AND THEN ACTIVATES THE SENSOR FOR THE SAME LENGTH OF TIME AS THE ACTUAL EXPOSURE. It then compares the level of sensor noise generated by this second, "blank" exposure to what's in the actual image file. Armed with this info, it then processes the actual image and removes the fixed-pattern noise where it's seen in both files. The blank file, of course, is not saved to the memory card.

What this means, though, is that the camera is literally tied-up for double the length of time of the actual exposure. A Bulb exposure of, say, 60 seconds means that the camera will then blink the red Card Busy light for an additional 60 seconds, as it reactivates the sensor to generate this blank image. You cannot shoot a picture during this period -- so for someone shooting, for example, fireworks, where they might want to take a series of Bulb exposures in quick succession, it might be preferable to put up with a little noise and turn the NR feature off. This is something the user who posted this inquiry will have to decide for him- or herself, usually on a case-by-case basis.

Long Exposure Noise Reduction ONLY impacts images taken at shutter speeds of one full second and longer (2 seconds, 4 seconds, etc), regardless of whether they're set by the user, automatically set by the camera, or the BULB setting is used. You can certainly leave the feature active at all times; it's simply ignored at shorter shutter speeds (like 1/125th second, etc).

'Nuf Said. Never Underestimate....

Here are two pictures that illustrate the point that we should never underestimate the importance of:

1) An interesting subject. (Which was actually the original title for this post - because the subject is of utmost importance.)

2) An interesting background.

3) A good exposure.

4) Good composition.

5) Attention to digital enhancements. I used Topaz Adjust on the top image.

See the light,
Rick

Is What You See What You Get?

If what you see on your monitor is not what you get from your printer, here are a few possibilities:
- Your monitor is not fully warmed up. May take 1/2 hour.
- Your monitor is not calibrated.
- You have not calibrated your monitor for a month.
- Your printer is not calibrated.
- You are not using the correct printer profile.
- You are not using the paper for the profile you are using.
- The lighting in your workspace is not consistent.
- You are working on your images with a screen background that is distracting you with strong color. Best to use gray.
- Print head is out of alignment or nozzles are clogged.

Even if you do all that stuff, your prints can be a little off – even if you have a large monitor. Monitor color and brightness are not exactly the same from side to side and top to bottom. Also, colors and brightness will look different the more you look to the sides. Knowing this, after you calibrate your monitor with your calibration device placed in the center of the monitor, work on the most important part your image there.

What's more, a print reflects light, while your monitor projects light. So the quality of the images is different.

Still more: Prints take a while to fully dry. Colors and brightness can change after a few hours.

Finally, we see colors differently at different times of day. We also see colors differently after drinking cola and coffee.

Well, I gotta go - and get my first Diet Coke of the day.

See the light (and color),
Rick
P.S. My guess is that age might also have something to do with it, especially if one has cataracts. Is there a doctor in the house who could comment?

Very Cool Feature in New Photomatix Pro 3.2

One of the coolest features of the new Photomatix Pro 3.2 (one of the most popular HDR imaging programs out there) is that you can reduce chromatic aberrations. This not only a cool feature, but an important one.

In the top image, the chromatic aberration is visible along the railing. The image was processed with the old Photomatix (with a touch of Topaz adjust).

The bottom image was processed with the new Photomatix (also with a touch of Topaz Adjust). Look ma! The chromatic aberration is greatly reduced.

You can get a 15% discount on Photomatix when you use this code upon checkout: ricksammon.

If you like to play with plug-ins, check out Plugin Experience.

See the Light (and the chromatic aberrations),
Rick
P.S. If you have really nasty chromatic aberrations, best to remove them first in Photoshop/ACR or other image-editing program.

Reaching Unconscious Competence And Important Saddle Time

After returning from my most recent seminar (Image Makers in Blue Springs, MO), the following email was in my in box.

I am sharing excerpts here, with the permission of the writer. It has a good few messages – especially about learning to become a good photographer and the different levels of learning.

Good thing I showed one of my favorite horseback riding pictures during the seminar :-)

Rick
P.S. Hey, getting email like this - and learning - is one of the reasons why I do so many seminars and workshops.
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Dear Rick:

I thoroughly enjoyed your photography seminar yesterday. I was the incessant note taker.

We spoke briefly at supper about you wanting to learn more about horses and riding. I am not certain what your schedule looks like, but I would be willing to spend some time with you so that you could move toward your dream of "riding as fast as the horse wants to run." I have done this, and I can assure you that it is thrilling.

In jumping they call it "throwing your heart over". I believe you could make some significant progress in 3-4 hours. But as in anything else worth doing, "saddle time" is crucial. Riding horses is another form of learning to dance - the better the communication, the better the dance.

You also asked about a quote used by my horsemanship mentor:

Levels of Learning

1. Unconscious Incompetence
2. Conscious Incompetence
3. Conscious Competence
4. Unconscious Competence - The level we all want to reach in the things we care passionately about.

Thank you again, and God bless you,

Stephanie Moore