Where To Go For Great Horse Photographs

Here's a look at some of my favorite horse photographs from my past photo workshops. If you like to photograph horses, we'll be doing just that on my 2015 Provence, Iceland, Oregon Coast and Casper, WY photo workshops. Click here to see all my workshops.

Above: Provence, France.

Above: Oregon Coast.

Above: Conwy Valley, North Wales.

Above: Casper, Wyoming.

Above: Mongolia.

Above: Iceland

You'll find a few more horse photographs in my Cowboy/Cowgirl Gallery here on my site.

Explore the light,
Rick

 

Chris Reed Talks Photography Copyright Law

First off, thanks to Rick for the opportunity to contribute to his blog. I've followed Rick's work for years and have always respected his sage advice about all things photography, so being able to contribute to the blog is quite the honor! 

As a copyright lawyer and photographer, I spend a lot of time thinking about not only how to create compelling images, but also how to help photographers maintain control of their work and to protect it from people looking to steal or profit from it without permission.   

Copyright law is an area of great confusion and anxiety for many photographers, but it doesn't need to be. Fundamentally, copyright is about the right to control your work and how it's ultimately used. Like any law, there are some exceptions, but generally, if you make an image, you own the copyright and you get to control how it's used. 

That means that you might still want to think about how copyright affects your images even if you don't plan to sell them. Of course, if you want to make your images freely available and just not worry about it all, that's fine too. My goal is to give you the tools necessary to evaluate your options when it comes to protecting your images legally and effectively online so you can decide for yourself what approach to take. 

My new book, Copyright Workflow: Protecting, Managing, and Sharing Digital Images, walks through the nuts and bolts of copyright law, how to register your works with the U.S. Copyright Office -- something that's highly recommended, especially if you're a U.S. based photographer. 

But in today's post, though, I want to give you four simple techniques you can apply today to protect your images online. 

First, be sure to include identifying information in the metadata of your images. You can do that using your image management software. Using an import preset in Lightroom, you can make sure that every image in your library has the right information burned into the file.  

In addition, most modern cameras let you put ownership information right in the camera so that its attached to your image file as soon as you create it.   

You can also apply image borders or watermarks to help identify yourself as the photographer and copyright owner. Here I've applied a simple text watermark using Lightroom's Watermark Editor (accessible from within the Export dialog box), but you can also apply your logo (in PNG or JPEG format). 

If you want to get a little bit more involved, you can add borders to your image that include logos, copyright statements, and whatever other information you might want to include. 

There are lots of ways to do this, but I like to use a plugin for Lightroom called LR/Mogrify which lets me tailor the look of the image a little more than Lightroom's own watermark editor. 

Of course, none of these methods are foolproof -- the metadata could be removed, your watermark could be cloned out, and the image could be cropped out of the borders. But, our goal isn't to make it impossible to take your images without permission, but just make it a "little bit difficult" to steal, and maybe even get some promotional value out of it. 

The unfortunate reality these days is that there's a strong chance the images you post online will be used without your permission at some point. You can use a service like Tineye (which is free for noncommercial use) to help monitor online use of your images. 

Here's a screen grab of Tineye showing 31 online uses of one of my images of the U.S. Capitol. (I should note that most of these uses are probably properly licensed, since I offer this image for royalty-free images, but this same tool can help you find unlicensed uses). 

So, there you have it -- four techniques you can apply today to help keep control of your images once they're posted online. Interested in learning more about protecting your work? You can get 35% of my book, Copyright Workflow for Photographers: Protecting, Sharing, and Managing Digital Images by clicking here, and using the coupon code PEACHPIT35 when you check out. 

You can read more about me and my work on my web site.

Thanks for reading, and again, thanks to Rick for giving me the opportunity to share this with you!

Best Lenses for Best Bird Photographs

I briefly cover lenses in my info-packed Master the Art and Craft of Bird Photography on-line class. ($10 discount code for blog readers is: rsbirds1.)

In this post, I'll talk a bit more about what I feel are best lenses for bird photography.

If I could use only one lens, it would be the Canon 200-400mm IS with 1.4x teleconverter. That lens is super-sharp and super versatile. I took the photo above with that lens. I actually don't own that lens. I borrow it from Canon's CPS.

To digress for just a bit. Here's a photo of me, along with my friend Jonathan "The Big Cat Man" Scott, using that lens in Kenya. Jonathan loves that lens, too!

Another versatile lens is the  Canon 100-400mm IS Lens. Most of my bird photographs, including the one above, were taken with that lens. If you have the original push-pull model, check out the updated version. The rotating zoom is awesome, and I think the lens is sharper than the original model.

When the birds are relatively close, I'd recommend using a 70-200mm lens. I use the f/4 version because it's smaller, lighter and less expensive than the f/2.8 version.

For a general purpose fixed lens, check out the Canon 400MM DO lens, which I used to make the photograph above. When I go on a bird photography trip, I always have this lens with me. Again, I borrow it from Canon's CPS.

A must-have accessory is a Canon 1.4x teleconverter. I never leave home without it when birds are on my hit list.

Here's another shot taken with my Canon 100-400mm lens.

For environmental bird photographs, I recommend the Canon 24-105mm IS lens, which I used to take this photograph at Bosque del Apache, New Mexico.

I don't have any bird photographs taken with the Canon 70-300mm lens, but some say it's the sharpest zoom Canon offers. Above is a photograph that I took in Kenya that illustrates its sharpness.

Of course, 500mm and 600mm lenses are great for bird photography. They get you up-close and personal with the animals. Super-serious bird photographers use these super-telephoto lenses.

Again, you'll find lots of technical tips in my Master the Art and Craft of Bird Photography on-line class. ($10 discount code for blog readers is: rsbirds1.)

The $10 discount code for my Landscapes & Seascape class (on the same page) is: landscapes.

Birds will be the focus of my December 2015  Bosque del Apache photo workshop, listed on my 2015 Workshops page.

Explore the light,
Rick

Saturday and Sunday Savings!

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Happy weekend everyone. Here are this weekend's savings.

Save $10 on my Master Landscape & Seascape Photography with this code: landscapes.


Save $10 on my Master the Art and Craft of Bird Photography with this code: birds.


Get a few of my apps for free - if you grab a free redeem code fast enough.
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World of Butterflies:
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Light It!:
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Save a few bucks on this bundle of apps from my friend David Ziser.


Check out these "Friends of Rick" Savings.


Save up to 15% on select plug-ins.


Also, most of my seminars are free - thanks to the support of the Canon Explorers of Light program.

Explore the light - while you are saving a few bucks.
Rick




Chris Smith Offers 5 Cool Tips for Awesome Fisheye Lens Shots

Thanks, Rick, for having me back on your blog. It’s always nice to feel famous for a day! This time I'd like to share some quick tips for getting awesome fisheye lens shots.

Opening Image: Chicago’s St. Mary of the Angels.

1. Get centered: Looking through my fisheye images, there is one thing that almost all of them have in common. They are shot straight on with the subject centered in the frame. There are times when you’ll want to shoot off-center, but try the straight-on shot too. If you go for the straight-on shot, it’s critical that you really are centered and that your camera is level. If your camera is slightly tipped left or right, it will be almost impossible to fix on your computer. Shoot from a tripod, use Live View with the superimposed grid on the back of your camera to compose, and take a few minutes to make sure everything is lined up right.

Above: People’s Gas Pavilion at Lincoln Park, Chicago.

2. Get close: If you have a subject that you want prominent in the frame, get really close to it. This cement barrier with the graffiti was only a couple feet in front of the lens. And the cars providing the light trails were close too! The taxi driver of the car on the left rolled down his window, stuck out his chin, and asked, “Did you want me to smile?”

Above: The Kinzie Street Bridge, Chicago.

3. Tip up and down: Point your lens up so that the horizon is below the center of your frame. Tip it down so the horizon is above. Watch how it changes the curve of the horizon. If you want the horizon level, it needs to be in the center of the frame. If you want it to curve up like a smiley face, point your lens up. If you want it to curve like a frowny face, tip your lens down. Remember: Tip down for a frown.

Above: The Museum of Contemporary Art, Chicago.

4. Use it in tight places: When you’re in a small room with little room to maneuver, you may need to get out the fisheye lens just to get it all in the frame. If you do this, you can choose to “de-fish” the image back on your computer. I used Lightroom to take the fisheye effect out of the image of the girl on the stairs. You lose some sharpness and resolution, but it may be the only way to get the shot.

Above: The Art Institute of Chicago.

5. A little goes a long way: Think of your fisheye images as the spice in your recipe. You don’t want to overdo it. I have been guilty of this. My friends have even offered to put me into a 12-step fisheye program. But, if you use the fisheye lens at the right time, you can completely change the look of your shot to create unique and memorable images.

If you’d like to shoot some of these amazing Chicago places for yourself, join me at the second annual Out of Chicago Conference this summer. Thirty-two fabulous photographers, including Juan Pons, will be teaching and leading photo walks around the city. Use the code “thegodfather” for $50 off registration. 

 Thanks, Rick (who is known as "The Godfather" among some of his friends).